Our
next port of call was Bardia National Park, 8 hours or so West of
Lumbini by bus. We had first head of Bardia from an Australian guy,
and fellow Bollywood extra, who told us that it was his favourite
place in 2 years of travelling. On his recommendation we had booked
into a place called “Mr B's”, and the friendly Mr B picked us up
from the bus stop to take us to his guesthouse by jeep.
The
reason for our trip out to Bardia was wildlife spotting. Whilst
Chitwan is the most popular National Park on the tourist route we had
read that Bardia offered the same levels of wildlife activity without
the same crowds. Unfortunately our visit was smack-bang in the
middle of the wet season and therefore the worst time of year for
wildlife spotting, but we had been assured that if anyone was going
to find wildlife for us to spot it was Mr B.
Our
options for wildlife spotting at this time of year were limited, but
we opted to go for a rafting tour. We thought the tour seemed a
little pricey, however it soon became apparent that Mr B had
assembled a crack unit of wildlife guides and rafters who may or may
not survive as soldiers of fortune – The B Team!
If only Mr B had a mohawk and a fear of flying |
The
day consisted of rafting down the river while Mr B pointed out
various birds as well as a few crocodiles (one of which was spotted
only when it was a few metres away, prompting some rapid paddling to
get a safe distance away), but mainly kept an eye out for signs of
the bigger animals. Periodically Mr B would spot some fresh elephant
or rhino tracks and we would disembark from the raft to track the
animals through the jungle on foot. In reality it was Mr B tracking
the animals while we did our best to track Mr B as he breezed through
the dense jungle as if it wasn't there (he just seemed to move at the
same speed irrespective of whether we were walking on grass, through
mud, through dense undergrowth of through rivers).
Although
we went quite a few hours without seeing anything it was already
really enjoyable being out on the water and on the lookout for
anything exciting and well worth what we had paid. The ever-eloquent
Dr Ziebro PhD succinctly summer up her considered thoughts with the
following statement: “I'm enjoying the crap out of this!”. It
was really thrilling to see an expert tracker in action as he
inspected tracks and excrement, assessed directions of movement by
looking at broken branches etc, and even smelled out our targets.
This was proper jungle too – grass up to head-height and branches
and vines that needed hacking back to pass through as we wound
through the trees climbing over roots and ducking under thicker
branches. On several occasions we were definitely really close to
finding rhinos or elephants, and potentially to turning a corner to
come face-to-face with them, but eventually we had to turn back when
the jungle got so dense that it would have been impossible to run
away if one of the animals became aggressive. Mr B was clearly
willing to take significant risks to find us some big animals,
however even he had to draw the line somewhere, especially when we
were tracking an inevitably protective female rhino with her young.
After
lunch we made the decision to continue on foot for a while in the
search for elephants. 30 minutes later Mr B received a message from
2 of the other guides who had stayed with the raft that there was an
elephant. Unfortunately there was a mis-communication as to where
the elephant was which resulted in Mr B leading us as fast as we
could go through the jungle and through two rivers only to find out
that the elephant was back in the direction we had originally walked
from. Luckily the raft was able to return upstream to collect us,
and then head back downstream in time to catch the elephant. We were
able to get out of the raft and watch him from a distance, before we
got back into the raft and were able to pass really close by him.
After
that we headed to a look-out point where there was a chance of seeing
rhinos. It turned out to be a rather good chance, as there were
three rhinos on the other side of the river when we arrived there.
It was really amazing to watch such rare and powerful creatures
casually grazing on the grass (in a way not entirely dissimilar to
cows) even if they were quite a distance away from us.
When
we returned to the raft we found out that Mr B had heard heard a
tiger roaring not far away. Mr B had also found fresh tiger prints which our lego explorer friend (a stowaway on the raft) inspected closely.
As we moved along the river we could
hear the various birds and monkeys sounding out warnings that a tiger
was near, however he unfortunately opted to stay in the undergrowth
rather than come to the river for a drink. It was still pretty cool
to be so close to a tiger, and probably as close as we could expect
to be to seeing a tiger at this time of year.
Well
satisfied with seeing three crocodiles, an elephant and three rhinos,
as well as getting pretty close to a tiger, we started heading back.
Completely unexpectedly we then came across our second elephant of
the day, a huge male right next to the river bank. We steered nearer
to get an even better look, however Mr B then recognised him as a
notoriously dangerous elephant who had previously attacked local
villages and killed people. He was clearly not happy about us being
there, and he waved his trunk aggressively in the air to warn us off.
Mr B and co very quickly started paddling away to get us out of
harm's way as the elephant ran along the river bank to chase us off
his territory. I never felt like we were in danger, but judging by
the reaction of the guides it clearly wasn't safe to be as close as
we had momentarily been.
The
day was completely exhausting but absolutely exhilarating. We were
incredibly impressed by Mr B's skill and knowledge, and the
dedication of his team to locating the big animals for us. I got the
impression we would have kept going for as long as it took for us to
see at least one elephant or rhino.
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